Chicken Satsivi
The sight and smell of walnuts chopped is amazing and this dish is like nothing I have tasted before. I don’t know what alchemy turns finely ground walnuts into the creamiest (cream-free!) sauce I’ve ever had.
Chicken Satsivi
Prep: 30 to 40 minutes
Cook: 1 hour 20 minutes
Ingredients
1 chicken (about 4 pounds / 1.8 kg), whole or cut into pieces
Kosher salt
¼ cup (½ stick / 55 g) unsalted butter
2 medium onions, finely chopped
8 cups (910 g) walnuts
1 tablespoon blue fenugreek
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads
2 cloves garlic, crushed with a garlic press
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, plus more as needed
Method
Place the chicken in a large pot and cover with water by 3 inches. Season the water generously with several pinches of salt.
Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the meatiest part of the thigh registers at least 180°F (80°C), 35 to 45 minutes.
Strain the chicken and reserve the broth separately. Place the chicken on a cutting board.
Set a broiler rack 6 inches (14 cm) below the heat source and set the broiler to high.
Cut the cooled chicken into 8 pieces (unless it is already cut up) and arrange the pieces skin side up on a baking sheet.
Sprinkle all over with salt. Broil until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Prepare the walnut sauce, melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and a couple of pinches of salt and cook, stirring, until translucent and softened, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Process the walnuts in a food processor until very finely chopped. Transfer the nuts to a large bowl. Add the blue fenugreek, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, saffron, garlic, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt.
Use your hands to knead and rub the walnuts until they are very oily and stick firmly together when pressed between your fingers; this will take about 20 minutes.
Add the sautéed onions and about 1 cup (240 ml) of the reserved broth to the walnuts and stir until the mixture takes on the consistency of sour cream; the color will lighten considerably. Add more broth as necessary to loosen the walnuts.
Whisk enough broth into the walnut mixture to make it pourable, and pour it into the large pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the pieces of chicken. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer if necessary to reheat the chicken. Remove from the heat. Serve hot.
Armenian Pork Skewers
To drive from Tbilisi, Georgia, to Yerevan, Armenia, you must navigate a winding, treacherous mountain road, one of the scariest I've ever encountered. It's hard to believe that driving on it is even allowed. However, there is one redeeming aspect of this perilous journey: the kebab stand halfway between the two cities. The man at the stand prepares pork kebabs that are simply seasoned and incredibly delicious. Having enjoyed these kebabs both on and off this daunting road, I can confirm that their unforgettable taste isn’t merely due to the relief of surviving the drive. Be sure to use well-marbled pork, as lean pork just doesn’t deliver the same flavor.
Armenian Pork Skewers
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 25 to 35 minutes
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) pork butt or shoulder (the fattier the better), cut into 1½-
to 2-inch (4 to 5 cm) pieces
1 white onion, thinly sliced, plus 1 white onion, thinly sliced just before serving
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon dried summer savory
Vegetable oil, for the grill
Thin lavash, for serving
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped, for serving
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon), for serving
Equipment: 4 to 6 skewers; if bamboo or wood, soak them in water for 30
minutes before using
Method
Place the pork in a bowl with half of the thinly sliced onions. Season with the salt, paprika, and summer savory. Use your hands to mix the ingredients together until the pork is thoroughly coated in seasoning and the onion is evenly dispersed. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours.
When ready to cook, thread the pork on skewers. Prepare a hot two-zone fire in a charcoal grill with a lid: Light a hot fire. When the coals are covered with gray ash, rake them to one side of the grill, creating a cooler zone on the other side to use for indirect cooking. Lightly grease the top grate with oil and put it in place.
Place the skewers over direct heat and grill the pork, turning often, to lightly brown on all sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side.
Transfer the skewers to the ambient heat side (away from the direct heat). Cover the grill, arranging the lid so that the vent is directly over the skewers; open the vent. Cook until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
Spread the lavash on a platter or in a serving bowl and put the cooked pork on top. Scatter with the freshly cut onion and parsley, sprinkle with flaky salt, and serve.
Beef Koobideh Persian Minced Beef Kebabs
People who like saffron love these kebabs, and with good reason, as the saffron really shines through beautifully. Be sure the ground beef is very cold before it goes into the mixer.
Beef Koobideh
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 25 to 35 minutes
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Ingredients
¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads
1 tablespoon boiling water
1½ yellow onions, cut into wedges
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 pounds (910 g) very cold 80/20 ground beef
2¾ teaspoons kosher salt
2¼ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon baking soda
Vegetable oil, for the grill
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Equipment: 8 to 10 skewers; if bamboo or wood, soak them in water for 30 minutes before using.
Method
In a small dish, combine the saffron and boiling water. Set aside.
Process the onion and garlic in a food processor until very finely chopped. Transfer to a sieve and drain for 20 minutes. Press out any excess liquid.
Put the ground beef in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the onion and garlic. Mix on low for 1 minute to mix thoroughly. Add the reserved saffron-infused water, salt, pepper, and baking soda. Mix on low until well combined, about 2 minutes.
Scrape down the sides of the mixer. Increase mixer speed to medium-low and mix for 9 minutes, until the mixture is thoroughly mixed and tacky to the touch.
Wet your hands with cold water, divide the meat into 8 to 10 equal portions, and mold each around a skewer like a corndog.
Transfer the skewers to a baking sheet or platter. Cover and refrigerate until ready to grill (up to 4 hours).
Prepare a hot grill. Lightly grease the grill grate with oil and add the skewers. Grill, rotating the kebabs every few minutes, until evenly browned and slightly charred in parts, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with flaky salt.