Armenian Pork Skewers
To drive from Tbilisi, Georgia, to Yerevan, Armenia, you must navigate a winding, treacherous mountain road, one of the scariest I've ever encountered. It's hard to believe that driving on it is even allowed. However, there is one redeeming aspect of this perilous journey: the kebab stand halfway between the two cities. The man at the stand prepares pork kebabs that are simply seasoned and incredibly delicious. Having enjoyed these kebabs both on and off this daunting road, I can confirm that their unforgettable taste isn’t merely due to the relief of surviving the drive. Be sure to use well-marbled pork, as lean pork just doesn’t deliver the same flavor.
Armenian Pork Skewers
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 25 to 35 minutes
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients
2½ pounds (1.2 kg) pork butt or shoulder (the fattier the better), cut into 1½-
to 2-inch (4 to 5 cm) pieces
1 white onion, thinly sliced, plus 1 white onion, thinly sliced just before serving
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon dried summer savory
Vegetable oil, for the grill
Thin lavash, for serving
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped, for serving
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon), for serving
Equipment: 4 to 6 skewers; if bamboo or wood, soak them in water for 30
minutes before using
Method
Place the pork in a bowl with half of the thinly sliced onions. Season with the salt, paprika, and summer savory. Use your hands to mix the ingredients together until the pork is thoroughly coated in seasoning and the onion is evenly dispersed. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours.
When ready to cook, thread the pork on skewers. Prepare a hot two-zone fire in a charcoal grill with a lid: Light a hot fire. When the coals are covered with gray ash, rake them to one side of the grill, creating a cooler zone on the other side to use for indirect cooking. Lightly grease the top grate with oil and put it in place.
Place the skewers over direct heat and grill the pork, turning often, to lightly brown on all sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side.
Transfer the skewers to the ambient heat side (away from the direct heat). Cover the grill, arranging the lid so that the vent is directly over the skewers; open the vent. Cook until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
Spread the lavash on a platter or in a serving bowl and put the cooked pork on top. Scatter with the freshly cut onion and parsley, sprinkle with flaky salt, and serve.